Sailing knots guide

Use for: Making a fixed loop at the end of a line. Attaching a sheet to a sail clew, securing a line to a ring or post, lifeline attachment.

Why it matters: Will not slip or tighten under load, yet unties easily when tension is released. The most important knot in sailing.

1. Make a small loop (the “rabbit hole”) in the standing part
2. Pass the working end up through the hole
3. Take it around behind the standing part
4. Pass it back down through the hole
5. Pull tight — leave a tail of at least 15cm

Use for: Securing a line to a cleat — dock lines, halyards, sheets.

Why it matters: Quick to tie and release under load. The correct knot for any cleat on a boat.

1. Take a full round turn around the base of the cleat
2. Make a figure-of-eight across the horns (2–3 times for a halyard)
3. Finish with a locking hitch: flip the final loop so it crosses under itself
4. Never just wrap — a proper cleat hitch won’t jam

Use for: Securing a line to a ring, post, or rail. Fender lines, anchor buoy, tying to a bollard.

Why it matters: The round turn takes the load; the two hitches lock it. Can be adjusted under load.

1. Pass the line through the ring or around the post twice (round turn)
2. Bring the working end over the standing part and through the gap (half hitch)
3. Repeat for the second half hitch in the same direction
4. Both hitches should face the same way to avoid a clove hitch by mistake

Use for: Quick temporary attachment to a rail, post, or spar. Tying fenders to a rail.

Why it matters: Very fast to tie — but can slip if load direction changes. Use only for temporary attachment.

1. Make a loop and place it over the post
2. Make a second loop in the same direction
3. Place the second loop over the post — it crosses the first
4. Pull both ends to tighten
5. For security, add a half hitch with the working end around the standing part

Use for: Stopper knot at the end of a sheet or halyard to prevent it running through a block or fairlead.

Why it matters: Bulkier than an overhand knot so it jams reliably in blocks. Easy to untie even after heavy load.

1. Make a loop, passing the working end over the standing part
2. Pass the working end under the standing part and up through the loop
3. Pull tight — you should see a figure-of-eight shape
4. Leave a tail of at least 10cm

Use for: Tying reef points when reefing a sail. Joining two ends of the same rope.

Why it matters: Flat, symmetrical knot that lies neatly against a sail. Do not use to join two different ropes — use a sheet bend instead.

1. Left end over right end, then under (half knot)
2. Right end over left end, then under (second half knot)
3. Both loops should point the same way — if one flips, it becomes a granny knot
4. Memory: “left over right, right over left”

Use for: Joining two ropes of different sizes. Attaching a line to a sail where no shackle is available.

Why it matters: Works even when the ropes are significantly different in diameter — unlike the reef knot.

1. Form a bight (loop) in the thicker rope
2. Pass the thinner rope up through the bight
3. Take the thin rope around behind both parts of the thick rope’s bight
4. Pass it back under itself (not under the bight)
5. Pull tight — both free ends should be on the same side

Use for: Attaching a line to another line or spar under load. Taking a strain off a jammed winch, attaching a snubber to anchor chain.

Why it matters: Will not slide along the rope it is tied to when pulled in one direction. Unique among hitches for this property.

1. Take two turns around the spar or rope, both going towards the direction of pull
2. Take a third turn going away from the direction of pull
3. Pass the working end under itself to form a half hitch
4. Pull tight in the direction of load — it should grip firmly without sliding

Use for: Attaching a rope to an anchor ring or shackle. Any critical attachment where the line must not pull free.

Why it matters: The first half hitch passes through the round turns, locking them. More secure than a round turn and two half hitches for anchor work.

1. Pass the line through the ring twice (two round turns)
2. Take the working end through both turns and over the standing part
3. Add a second half hitch around the standing part only
4. Seize the tail to the standing part for a permanent attachment

Use for: Lashing down sails, securing loads on a foredeck. Anywhere you need to apply significant tension with a single line.

Why it matters: Creates a 2:1 mechanical advantage using only the rope itself.

1. Secure one end to a fixed point
2. Tie a slipped overhand knot (bight) partway along the rope — this is your pulley
3. Pass the working end around the far attachment point
4. Thread it back through the bight and haul — 2:1 mechanical advantage
5. Lock off with two half hitches around the standing part